The 2499 was one of AP’s first auto wind wrist watch calibers, with 21 jewels, blued screws heads, a swan neck regulator and a beautifully machined 18kt gold weighted rotor. The yellow gold case is a modern 35mm and houses AP’s automatic winding caliber 2499. Next a rare treat: a 1956 reference 5112BA with striking original black gilt dial. 1518 chronograph and was the base for the Vacheron Constantin caliber 434. It was used in Patek Philippe’s famed ref. Even today the 13″‘ VZ is regarded as one of the finest movements created. These movements were adjusted to multiple positions and finished to the highest levels, with beveled and polished bridge plate edges, geneva stripes, perlage, and black polished screw heads. Because of its reliability and robust design, Audemars Piguet, Patek Philippe and others used a number of these “stripped” VZ movements when assembling their ultra precise competition watches. If these parts were removed the added power could be used to create a more precise movement. Because the 13”’ VZ was initially designed as a chronograph it supplied enough power to handle the added friction that came with the additional components of a chronograph mechanism. Some became chronographs, calendars and other complicated pieces, and some became simple time only watches. We chose to present it here out of respect and love for the beautifully finished VZ 3/4 plate movement inside.įrom the 1920’s into the 1980’s Audemars Piguet used approximately 2000 Valjoux 13″‘ VZ ebauches in different configurations. In addition to its Art Deco styling, the watch features screwed lug bars and a knurled crown, also in solid rose gold. The only clue to the origin of the 18kt rose gold case are French hallmarks found stamped into the sides and back. The pieces seen here may not be complicated, but characterize both the elegance and simplicity Audemars Piguet was known and loved for during the “Golden Era” of watchmaking.įull disclosure: this watch was re-cased at some point during its existence, probably early on, and the dial has been refinished. In an era before digital machining this was nothing short of a minor miracle.
For those not familiar, a watch is considered a Grand Complication if, and only if a perpetual calendar, split second chronograph, moon phase, minute repeater and grand and petite sonnerie are included in addition to the time. The focus was and always had been on quality and craft rather than scale.ĪP made a name for themselves producing highly complicated watches, claiming the Grand Complication as their signature specialization. Even at it’s peak, triple digit production numbers were not uncharacteristic of the manufacture, who employed at most 30 watchmakers during the 1950’s. Ten years later, during the height of the second world war, production was chugging along at 395. Three years later in 1932 production had doubled to two. Only a single watch left AP’s workbenches that year. In 1929 the crash on Wall Street had left the Swiss watch industry reeling. What many may not know is that Audemars Piguet produced far fewer watches than either Patek or Vacheron, a trend that holds true to this day. It was through this relentless dedication that AP established themselves as one of the three great “Holy Trinity” watchmaking houses along side the likes of Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin. The remote town, nestled in the heart of the Vallée de Joux in the Jura Mountains, offered the perfect mix of ingredients for watchmaking – a plentiful supply of iron ore, timber, and, thanks to long and particularly brutal winters, no shortage of time to perfect the craft.
The story of Audemars Piguet began in 1875 in the small Swiss village of Le Brassus, when a twenty-two year old watchmaker named Jules Louis Audemars signed a ten year partnership agreement with twenty-four year old watchmaker Edward August Piguet.
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